Mastering the Art of Lashes: Expert Insights on Different Extension Types

If you visit a lash expert for fluttery extension, they will use their experience to create the perfect set just for you. Trina Dial is the founder of Maven Artistry and says that lashes are not one size fits everyone. A good artist will guide you to the best look for your face by assessing it.

There are many options available to you before your appointment. The style and curl of your lashes, as well as the type of curl can change the look. Dial says that depending on the style of lashes, a lash stylist can add anywhere between 60 and 600+ lashes on each eye in the first application.

Below you will find a comprehensive guide to help you better understand the different types of eyelash extensions.

Materials for Consideration

Dial advises that “ninety nine percent of individual lash extensions are made from synthetic material, as the majority of eyelash users have moved away from animal hair.” Here are three of the most popular materials:

Synthetic Eyelashes: Synthetic lashes are the most common lash extensions. They are made from a nylon fiber known as polybutylene Terephthalate (PBT). The lashes are satin-like and have a stiffer feel, says Cynthia Tsang of Lash L’Amour.

Faux silk: Shiny and glossy faux silk lashes made of plastic fibers that look like silk. They tend to last longer because they are lightweight. This is a great option for people with thin or fine lashes.

Faux mink: Made from a synthetic fibre designed to mimic the real fur of mink, faux mink extension have a rich matte finish and soft feel,” Dial says. They’re perfect for creating a wispy, airy look.

Eye Shape and Lash Extensions

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Envious Lashes and @lash.lamour

Natural eye:This shape enhances the natural lashes, without changing their appearance dramatically. It is great for those who want a minimal makeup. Tsang says that the extensions are placed at the inner corner and gradually increase in thickness as they move outward. The look is suitable for all eye shapes.

Cat eye: The outer corner of the eyes is covered with longer, thicker lashes that are tapered inwards. Robyn Fischer, owner of Makeup By Robyn, says that the result is a sexy wing-like look. This look can be tailored from subtle to dramatic. It works best with almond-shaped, round, closed-set, and downturned-eyes.

Open Eye/Doll Eye: Also known as an open-eye style, this shape creates a wide-eyed appearance with lashes which are longer at the middle of the lashline and taper towards the outer and interior corners. These work best with round, almond-shaped and downturned eye shapes.

Squirrel eye:With the look, the lashes are tapered at the outer corner and longer on the inner corner. The longest lashes are positioned above the iris in order to achieve both an open doll effect and a sexy-cat look. Fisher notes that they’re perfect for eyes with a close-set, arched brow, or lashes that grow down.

Styles of Lashes

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You will choose the type of lash that best suits your face shape and eye color. Most common types are:

Classic Lashes : Applied individually, classic lashes look subtle and are perfect for daily wear. Malin Singleton is the owner of Art of Lash. She says that classic lashes are the most natural-looking and safest option for those who have just started out. However, some clients feel they lack volume.

Volume Lash Extensions: Volume extensions are made by applying multiple lightweight extensions to each natural eyelash. Singleton says that a lash artist can create handmade lash fan by grouping together several fine extensions. The result is a dark, feathery look. They’re easy to customize, but they require a lot more maintenance. Refills can last up to two hours.

Hybrid Lash:The technique of hybrid lashes combines volume and classic applications to create a wispy, natural-looking lash line. Singleton explains that hybrid sets can be customized and retain their natural look as they grow. They can be more costly than volume lashes and are not as full.

Russian volume lashes: These extensions provide fullness and densification across the entire lashline. Singleton notes that they are made with short, lightweight lashes. They have a six to eight week retention period because of their ability to wrap and hold on to the natural lash. When the extensions fall off, it can make the eyes look unbalanced.

Wispy Lash: Also known as a textured lash or a strip lash, this technique involves fanning several extensions along the lashline to create wispy, airy lashes. They can either be light and airy, or dense and intense. The final look depends on how the fans are laid out. In some cases, spikes (long individual lashes) or closed volume fan extensions can be added to the extension for texture.

Expression Lashes: Made of synthetic mink, and containing multiple ultra-thin individual eyelashes that are attached in a fan, express lashes use premade volume fans for a faster application. Tsang says that they can be applied in under an hour and can give a uniform appearance.

Curl Options

You can choose between different curl patterns and lengths, and these are often identified with letters. Singleton says that your lash artist can help you decide which style is right for you, based on the type of lashes and lifestyle. Here are the five most popular options:

  • J-Curl: The slight curl at the tip of this extension is reminiscent of the letter J. It’s perfect for those who want volume and lift, but without too much drama.
  • B-Curl: With a straight base, and a curled end, this extension offers a bit more lift than the J-curl.
  • C-curl: Considered the most popular curl, the C-curl mimics the natural shape of curled eyelashes.
  • D-curl: The curliest of all extensions, the D-curl provides dramatic volume and lifting.
  • L-curl: Often called “Barbie” for its dramatic appearance, the L-curl has a flat bottom followed by a lift that resembles the letter “L”.

Factors you should also consider

How to Choose the Right Thickness

Your lash artist will discuss the desired look with you and assess your natural lashes to determine thickness. Dial advises that “healthy and strong lashes will accommodate fuller and more dense extensions, while shorter or sparse ones will do better with thinner and less volumous extensions.” Extensions are usually between.02mm and 0.25mm in size. Dial says that anything larger than.18mm will no longer be recommended by reputable lash artist as it can cause breakage and poor adherence.

How to Choose the Right Length

To accommodate various styles, lash extensions are available in a variety of lengths. They can range from.06mm up to.16mm. However, they can also be as short as.03mm or as long as.25mm. Tsang says that shorter lengths (0.06mm -.11mm), while more natural, are complemented by longer lengths (0.12mm -.16mm), which give a bolder and dramatic appearance. The rule of thumb for adding extensions is not to add one longer than 30% of your natural lash length.

How to match the color of your natural lashes

Black was the most popular color for lash extensions, but now many artists match extensions to their clients’ natural hair shades. Dial says that she’s seen a variety of lash extension colors, including blonde, auburn and brown. She also explains how it’s not uncommon to mix and match these colors in order to achieve the desired look. The market also includes colored lashes in pink, purple, blue and burgundy. Tsang says that you can choose to add color in a small area of lashes or cover the entire lash with one color. The color will not fade and maintenance is the same as with black extensions.

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