A well-groomed brow can frame your face. Knowing how to shape them is a valuable skill. The thought of over-plucking your eyebrows or making a mistake with the shape can be intimidating. What’s the secret? How can you get that perfect face shape that enhances your eyes and lifts your face?
Golden Ratio
As an esthetician Soare observed that her clients often did not pay attention to the eyebrows and treated them as an afterthought.
Soare, InStyle’s editor-in-chief, said: “When you spend enough of your time looking at people’s faces, you begin to realize how eyebrows can transform someone’s whole look.”
She began offering brows separately, realizing that there was a huge gap in the market.
Soare said, “I was inspired to create my brows by the Golden Ratio concept that I learned in art school.” It struck me that eyebrows should be tailored to an individual’s bone structure to bring balance and proportion to their face. So I created a formula to apply the Golden Ratio.
Anastasia Beverly Hills Golden Ratio Shaping Technique is a three-measurement technique that creates brows tailored to each individual’s bone structure. The Brow is a revolutionary app for your phone that allows you to perfect the Golden Ratio Shaping Technique in the comfort of home. The app analyzes your face to find the best shape for your unique bony structure. The app also offers virtual consultations and tutorials as well as product recommendations.
Bailey said that eyebrows should be customized to the face.
He said, “At Benefit we use a method called brow mapping in order to identify a shape which will bring balance and ratio to the eyes and face.”
Eyebrow Shaping Tip
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Use Natural Light
Bailey recommends shaping your eyebrows in the bathroom that has the most natural lighting.
Bailey suggested that you use a mirror to tweeze in front of a window, with the light shining evenly on your face. Natural lighting will help you see every hair.
Don’t use magnifying mirrors
Bailey said that using a small magnifying mirror is illegal, as you can only view a few tiny hairs and not the shape of your face or what it does.
You must use a full-face mirror to view your entire face. Do not focus only on your eyebrows.
Outline
Start by outlining your eyebrows and filling them in.
Once your eyebrows are filled, only tweeze the hairs that fall outside this area. Soare says that this will ensure you don’t overdo the shave.
Use a pair of quality slant-tipped Tweezers. This will help you avoid causing pain by breaking the hairs at the base.
Trim but don’t cut
Trimming your brows is the most difficult part. However, a well-done trim can transform the way you look.
Bailey said that to trim your eyebrows you will need a small pair of brow scissors and a flexible gel such as Benefit 24-Hour Eyebrow Setter. Start by brushing hair towards the hairline, then outwards towards the temple. Let it dry. Use the tiny brow clippers to cut only the ends of hairs that extend beyond the shape. “If you cut the hairs short, the coarser hairs will not lay flat but instead stick out straight.”
Squeeze in the Right Direction
When tweezing, the most common mistake is to remove the hairs in the wrong directions.
Bailey explained that each hair is attached to a small blood vessel which keeps it healthy. It also allows the hair to regrow when it is removed. Once the vessel ruptures, hairs never grow back.
Bailey said that to tweeze correctly, it’s essential to hold the skin taut using one finger. Then, tweeze in the direction the hair is growing. This is usually upwards or towards the temple, rather than straight out.
Don’t let your eyebrows be too far apart
Your nose is a major factor in creating the perfect eyebrows. It helps you determine where to start.
Soare explains that the eyebrows should start directly above your middle nostrils. “Brows that are too far apart, or that overlap the points above can make eyes look wider or closer-set.”
Don’t overdo it!
It is important to get the eyebrow arch right when it comes time to define the shape.
Soare said that the highest point of an arch should be the connection between the middle tip of the nose and the middle iris. When the arches appear too close together, they can make the eyebrows look non-existent. If the arches are placed too far apart, the brows may overshadow the facial features.
This guide will help you to connect and fill in the eyebrows.
No to power-plucking, of course!
Bailey said that it is tempting to grab several hairs at once, but you should only do this if they are close together. This will ensure that you do not grab the wrong hair and end up with an ugly patch or hole.
End the Corners
According to Soare’s advice, eyebrows should be positioned at the point where the corner of the nose connects with the outer corner of the eye.
Soare added, “Tails which don’t reach this endpoint may appear nonexistent or highlight eyes that are wide-set.” “An open-ended, slack tail can make the face look bigger by adding more space.”
Eyebrow Makeup
If you haven’t shaped your brows in the last few months, eyebrow makeup is likely to be your best friend. Since I discovered the power of brow makeup, I’ve been reshaping my eyebrows less frequently. The majority of the time, I will use a soft eyebrow pencil or eyebrow powder to create a perfectly arched eyebrow.
It is an art to enhance your eyebrows with makeup. Once you master it, you will achieve perfection each time. Soare suggests using an ombre to create the most natural-looking brows.
To achieve this look, apply product with a gentle hand, starting at the arches and working your way towards the tail. Soare said to fill in the inner part with the remaining product. This ombre mimics both the density and shadows of naturally full eyebrows.
Popular Eyebrow Styles
The Laminated Brow
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Redzikowski shared that she used Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Freeze to flatten the hairs. After the Brow Freeze had dried, I used Chanel Stylo Sourcils Longwear Waterproof Defining Eyebrow Pencil in the direction that the hair grows.
Redzikowski said, “Take a picture once you are satisfied with the shape of your eyebrows.” This will allow you to look at your eyebrows from a different perspective and correct any asymmetry.
The Stay-All-Day Brow
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Redzikowski said that “Acacia’s [the model] beautiful eyebrows just needed to be refined a bit.”
The artist suggested filling in sparse spots with Maybelline Tattoo Brow Pencil, and then setting them in place with Grande Cosmetics Grandebrow Fill Volumizing Brow Gel.
Redzikowski shared that this combination is perfect for oily or hot skin, because they remain in place and your eyebrows won’t slide off.
The Full Natural Brow
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Redzikowski began by mixing a setting spritz with brow wax to create these full brows.
Redzikowski explained that he used a spoolie and whipped it around to create a paste. I then brushed the hairs in place. “After the brows were set, I used NYX Lift ‘N’ Snatch Brow Tint Pen Ash Brown to create hair like strokes in areas that weren’t as sparse. This kept the brow looking very natural.”
Redzikowski recommends rubbing a few drops of castor oil onto the brows every night to help them grow thicker and healthier.
The Brushed-Up Brow
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Redzikowski began by filling her eyebrows lightly with Shiseido Brow Ink Trio Deep Brown.
The artist explained, “This allows for the eyebrow to look natural and not dark.”
She then sprayed Urban Decay All Nighter Setting Spray in a tin Soap Brows, and mixed it with a spoolie.
Redzikowski explained, “I gently applied the paste to the eyebrows until I achieved the desired shape.”
The Microbladed Eyebrow
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Microblading is a great solution for those who are always in a rush and do not have the time to perfect their brows.
“I got microblading and it saved me a lot of time, because I don’t give myself enough time for getting ready.” Redzikowski said, “I love Charlotte Tilbury Legendary Brows Eyebrow gel in Star Brow. The tiny brush fills in sparse spots where my microblading has faded and keeps them in place. This product is a must-have. I can easily do my eyebrows in under a minute.